Monday 13 June 2016

Day 5 - Grasmere to Patterdale

We wanted to remember the beauty of Grasmere and the lovely surrounds we had the privilege of staying in for the last two nights.  It is so amazing to look out from our bedroom window and watch the clouds roll over the mountains.  Daylight begins very early here, usually the sun rises by 4:30am so there has been plenty of time to enjoy the clouds.  This mountain has disappeared and reappeared many times during our stay.              

And then there is the magnificence of the garden at Silver Lea's front door -  and the neighbour's across the road.  All that rain certainly makes for abundant growth in the gardens around here.  

As we set out today in glorious sunshine, we walk along the road which leads out of Grasmere and appreciate the picturesque setting one last time.

Would you ever tire of living in such beauty? Maybe the constant rain would wear one down...  


Looking back to Grasmere 
gives us memorable views and a last reminder of a very precious  rest day in a most  beautiful village.

We begin to climb, with the ever present and pleasant  stands
of foxgloves cheering us on

and calling us up to greater heights

How quickly we are gasping for breath which necessates a rest stop,  giving us opportunity to look down into incredibly green valleys.
We saw this circle of stones  but weren't sure what  they meant. 

  The clouds began to roll in
 and gave us some pleasant relief from the heat but I must say that I was worried that those clouds held rain.  They did hang low but they just kept ebbing and flowing during the day.... but not raining! 

 Cascades, Tongue Gill 

                   and a stream heading for a fall

We climbed 600mts to the pretty mountain lake of  Grisedale Tarn,
which is  overlooked by St Sunday Crag.

Lunch was enjoyed beside the Tarn, at the Patterdale end  and we  puzzled why other walkers didn't do the same.  We have set ourselves to enjoy the beauty of this amazing walk by choosing lovely spot to refresh and replenish ourselves.  The peace and quiet of this tarn was very restful.  Obviously someone else wanted to enjoy the tranquility of the lake  and set up camp in a front row position!

It's at Grisedale Tarn that the decision has to be made as to which route to take - St Sunday Crag; a climb to just over 800  metres, Helvellyn; the longest and highest route at 950 metres where you would have to walk across Striding Edge ridge or Grisedale Valley Route.  We decided that our goal was walking across England not over every Mountain in England so we chose the valley route.

We came down the Grisedale Valley route
and so enjoyed ourselves
as we walked through another lush valley.

The path brought us to  Ruthwaite Lodge, built in 1854 as a climbers' hut, where we stopped for a drink.  There is a lovely waterfall behind the lodge.
The cascades behind the lodge were a lovely backdrop for our photos 


                                                  

As we proceeded downward our track brought us past High Crag and Dollywaggon  Pike,  with Helvellyn towering above us.   It was like we were walking in the shadow of the Almighty! We walked beside Ruthwaite Beck to a footbridge over Grisedale Beck

With each step we take in the  valley the scenery grows more beautiful and I can't imagine a better way to spend a holiday..
Eventually we arrive at a farmer's stone hut.
This is  where Alfred Wainwright sheltered over night in 1953.  The next day  he heard that Edmund  Hillary had conquered Mt. Everest, the same day as the coronation of Elizabeth II.  The best we could do was be satisfied that we have walked in Wainwright's footsteps.

I just love the beautiful old bridges that span the rivers. Once we crossed this one a field of sheep was our next adventure. 

A peaceful scene 

 The shepherds with their sheep.

The wool just seems to fall off the sheep, 
leaving lots for us to pick up.  We have been told that this wool is  good for putting in your shoes as it still has the lanolin in it making it ideal for soothing blisters and sore feet.  There was plenty to chose from in this field.   

We are thankful that the farmers allow us to walk through their property so that we can enjoy such  beautiful little  retreats  along the way. 
This stream was a great spot for afternoon tea and a needed rest.

This old barn was gorgeous, tucked in among the trees and  sitting at the bottom of the hills, but the smell... well that was something else!

Our final leg today brings us to our first sighting of Ullswater (Water with a Bend)
the magnificent setting for the village of Patterdale.  On  one side of the lake is Helvellyn range and on the other Place Fell, and this is  our resting place for the night.   Many of these villages sit in stunning surrounds so  it is  hard to believe that one is more beautiful than another.  We'll agree that Patterdale sits well in her little part of the Coast to Coast walk.

The Post Office and Village Store is where Julia Bradbury visited when  she made the DVD of the Coast to Coast walk
(our inspiration for  doing this trip)  and we got some local advice towards tomorrow's journey - will we or won't we tackle Kidsty Pike....

We stayed the night at Oldwater View, the same B&B that Wainwright would stay in when in this part of Lakeland. The great thrill was that Joan and Allan stayed in Place Fell, the room Wainwright used to call his own.  He would walk onto the fells, take photos and then return to draw the beautiful sights he had enjoyed. Thanks Graham and Ammie.
 
The back of Oldwater View with a garden running down to the water, 

                                                                                                                           
makes for a splendid evening
William Wordworth found inspiration for his well known poem "Daffodils" while visiting Patterdale. I can understanding being inspired in this mountainous village.

The front entrance which you can't enter through! 

and Place Fell, our room for the night. 
 The view out of the window is Place Fell, hence the room's name.
Such a shame that the power line sits between the window and the Place Fell!       

Today was a great experience as we enjoyed the views, looking up to the mighty fells that surrounded us as we walked.  If we ever return, we will have to consider Helvellyn and pray for good weather... 





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