Wednesday 29 June 2016

Reflections about our Coast to Coast walk

I feel that I can't just stop talking about the Coast to Coast walk without a final reflection on the whole journey.  There were so many elements to such a long walk as this and I don't want to miss anything.

The walk:
- We walked 320 kms (about 200 miles)!  Each day we walked between 25,000 and 37,000 steps.
- Our longest day was the last day from Grosmont to Robin Hood's Bay.
- Our quickest day, last Tuesday we walked 14.1km/8.75miles.  This wasn't our shortest distance but we were getting better at walking long distances, even with sore feet.              

- Our highest climb was Kidsty Pike:  780m 

- Our hardest climb was Dent Hill at just below 400m/1300ft; not so high but this climb was towards the end of our first day and it was hotter than we ever expected.
     It was a TOUGH climb!  But Allan was grateful for the encouragement from a stranger.

- Our steepest descent: Raven Crag.  This was straight after Dent Hill and went straight down.
- Our muddiest day: The last day.  We walked through woodland and across moors that were exceptionally wet and therefore  muddy after a night of heavy rain.

We walked through three national parks: The Lake District National Park, The Yorkshire Dales and The North Yorkshire Moors.  Each of these National Parks was beautiful in their own way, and different.   It's difficult to say what was the most beautiful part we walked through, but Swaledale was so beautiful with
the stone barns, 

the Swale River, 

the many valleys,  

The pretty houses  

The walk from  Ravenseat Farm to Keld was particularly stunning and the cloudy sky made the countryside even more beautiful.

Our journey:
We planned the walk to take 20 days; 16 walking days with 4 rest days.  We feel that it was the perfect way for us to accomplish our goal.  We walked for 3 days then rested in Grasmere.
We were very ready for that rest day.  Climbing the fells in the heat of The Lakes District was very tiring.

We then walked for 4 days, which included Kidsty Pike (our longest and most trying day.  We got soaked right at the end of a long walk).  Our second rest day was in Kirkby Stephen.
 Once again we were ready for a rest and enjoyed a quiet day doing very little but enjoying the local sights.

Three walking days followed,  before another rest day, this time in Richmond,                                      the perfect place for a rest.  
Spent the day enjoying the history and beauty of this great town.

Refreshed, we headed into our longest walking period, 5 days straight.  We had a couple of shorter days in this group, including Great Broughton to Blakey Ridge - we strolled along the track, taking the opportunity to chat with fellow walkers and enjoyed lunch sitting on a rock, 
looking across the moors and down into Farndale Valley, before arriving at The White Lion soon after lunch, with time for a restful afternoon and evening.  


Our final rest day was in Grosmont 
At the beginning I wondered about the sense of a rest day just before our last day, but what a brilliant idea!  Taking the time to ride the steam train into Whitby, wandering around this lovely tourist seaside port and dining on awful, greasy fish and chips - what more could you ask for.

And then our final day - our longest and in many ways, our toughest but with the finish line nearly in sight, we pressed on to receive the prize and what a joy!!

The characters we met:
Firstly there was Don, an 82 year old American who was walking on his own.  We first met Don sitting on a rock with his shoe off.  He was in trouble but at the end of the day, there he was.  And each day he finished.  Everyone along the walk seemed to take him under their wing and we all watched out for him.  We had dinner together with Don in Grasmere before he continued on.    Because we rested the next day, we no longer walked with him.  We were very sad to say good-bye but delighted to see his name in the register when we reached Robin Hood's Bay.  He is the oldest person to have  completed  the Coast to Coast walk.

Mike and Tina were from New Zealand and we walked with them from Grasmere until Kirkby Stephen, where we stayed in the same accommodation.   They had to take the bus one day because Tina had fallen over and hurt her hip.  They were very laid back about the walk and untroubled about not walking one day.  We enjoyed being able to encourage one another.   I would love to know if they managed to eat that lunch that Rachel packed for them, it was huge!

Brad and Alex were from America - a grandfather doing the walk for the third time because his granddaughter asked him to take her on the walk.  He had a saying: Pain has no memory!  We did  enjoy our conversations with them and Brad was particularly touched that we showed care towards Alex.  We stayed together at Cambridge House in Reeth and were  sorry to  have to say goodbye.

Then there was Paul, from Sydney.  He was everybody's friend.  He only decided to do the walk 3 weeks ago and consequently had some out of the way accommodation.  I am still intrigued that people are happy to walk alone.  I guess on a walk of this nature, you will always have someone to chat to or confer with concerning the maps.  The highlight for Paul was when he found wings under his feet.  Towards the end of a tiring day he was struggling to put one foot in front of the other when suddenly a cow charged him. Paul said he's never run so swiftly before!

The  Brits were amazed with us Australians because we always wore hats, they don't seem to worry about getting the sun on their heads. In fact they love the sun and will do anything to enjoy it.  As we were walking through Shap we came across a lady standing in her front garden doing  the ironing!  She said to us that she didn't want to waste the sunshine by being stuck inside doing her chores so she had a long extension chord and her ironing board outside. She was already starting to get sunburnt.

Alfred  Wainwright would often tie a knot in the 4 corners of his hankie and use it as a hat.  This man mustn't have a hankie ... 
Yes that's a shower cap!!

This Irishman was like a mountain goat even with all his gear on his back.  Once again, a great encouragement to us.  He gave Allan some helpful training in the use of walking poles. 

We are so thankful for the opportunity to  complete the Coast to Coast walk.  And we are so thankful for great weather.  We did experience a good soaking but only once.  We suffered no injuries that stopped us completing our goal.  Allan does have a very sore heel now, but with the help of his poles, he was able to finish and that was what he wanted to do.


Sunday 26 June 2016

Day 20 - Grosmont to Robin Hood's Bay

Today's walk began with what the guide book described as 'a calf-popping climb up to Sleights Moor, part of it intriguingly named Eskdaleside Cum Ugglebarnby' (could become a good nick-name for Uncle Jona)!  We climbed for 2.2 kms with a 33% gradient.  The old Irish proverb was ringing in our ears - May the road rise up to meet you and the wind be always at your back...  It certainly rose to meet us, and meet us and meet us!  We thought it would never stop rising.      
The white dot in the distance is Allan nearing the top of the hill    

The view from the top was worth the hard work and the killingly aching calf muscles   

This moor was a bit muddy
- now that's an understatement.  This is what it means to be stuck in the mud. These poles aren't ours and they ain't goin' nowhere..

Littlebeck was our next goal. A steep descent brings us to a bend in the road, rounding it  reveals the lovely, secluded  hamlet of Littlebeck.  Such a pretty setting for this isolated settlement  in the valley amongst the trees.

As   we entered into Littlebeck  we were confronted with a flooded ford which we chose not to cross. It wasn't the  depth of the water  that worried us so much as the speed  of it.   I guess this could be an ongoing issue for the locals.  Fortunately we found a footbridge.  .

Once we left the village, we came into Little Beck Wood, 65 acres of  woodland filled with muddy paths - but a very beautiful place to walk.

In the middle of the woods we found  a mysterious cave called Hermitage Cave, where we sang a hearty rendition of 'Psalm 100',  the acoustics were great, even if our singing wasn't too tuneful.
The man of steel nearly caved in but rose again to soldier on  

We came across a money tree 
Yep, that's coins poking out of the tree. Curious!! 

Had morning tea at the Falling Foss  Tea Garden, which sits beside  a 20m-high waterfall (Falling Foss)  which was thundering, perhaps because of all the rain the night before.

 We walked along May Beck until we came out of the wood.

We were glad to leave Little Beck Wood    

Another two moors awaited us.  Our maps described them as 'boggy', once  again an understatement! For nearly two hours  we  tried hard to avoid wet feet and getting lost and eventually saw our first sign post for Robin Hood's Bay - our final destination.

But we weren't there yet - there was still 3 1/2 miles to walk.  Doesn't sound like a long walk but when you have walked over 300 kilometres your feet are screaming 'Get off me!'  It seemed  that the motherland wasn't going to let us conquer her without a fight.  
And there it was, the North Sea and the cliffs of the coast.  But where was Robin Hood's Bay?  Nearly there! 

It didn't appear until the very last bend.  

But what a beautiful sight.  Robin Hood's Bay and Evan's Head - a more pretty setting I can't imagine

Yet still the journey wasn't over.  We had to walk right past Streonshalh our accommodation, and down the hill to the North Sea to dip our boots into the water and throw our stone into the North Sea.
The victory salute!

Tossing the precious stones we had carried all the way from the Irish Sea into the North Sea

A shared joy is a greater joy

Veni Vidi Vici!

And the final duty - signing the Register for  those who have completed the Coast to Coast walk.  This is a tough last day, Allan's foot is killing him but we made it, every step...

This journey has been one of the great delights of our lives. And sharing it with Graham and Ammie   made it a greater joy. Thanks for all your encouragement, your friendship and your patience.  We couldn't have done it without you. 

Saturday 25 June 2016

Day 19 - Rest day in Grosmont

Over the past few days we have seen much evidence of England's rail history; a much needed mode of transportation for the different products of the mining industry in a bygone era.  Over time modern technology overtook the magnificent steam trains and they were forced to become historical relics. At Grosmont, an enthusiastic band of volunteers, who make up the North York Moors Railway Society, have succeeded in reviving these superb locomotives.  What a delight to hear the whistle and then see the head of steam appear around the corner as a huge black steam train pulls into Grosmont Station.

Our big adventure today was taking a ride on one of these trains to Whitby.  A smiling group of three volunteers, all retirees who love trains. Tom, Brian and Brian, were very keen to call the day "Independence Day" as this is the day Britain votes on whether to stay or leave the EU.  We were in no doubt what they thought!          
       
Tom, Brian and Brian.  

Brian and Tom sold us the tickets and generously gave us the Seniors' discount (even though we   aren't seniors...) and then suggested that we ride in First Class.  Throughout the trip our friendly volunteers were on hand to explain some local history and to make suggestions about photo opportunities.  Tom told Graham and myself to go to the back of the carriage, open the window and hang out as far as we could. According to Tom, this is the only way to get a great shot of the viaduct from the train as we round the bend.
I noticed a sign above the said window that read, "Danger, do not open window or hang any part of your body out of the train"!
.A view of our train from the back as we rounded the bend

The viaduct as we were approaching Whitby 


In case of fire or accident on the train,  select a bucket.  Perhaps you grab one as you are hanging out the window.

Seniors travelling first class

on the steam train to Whitby


Whitby is a bustling port  town on the coast. Supposed to be famous for its fish and chips, there are shops all along the foreshore.  So of course, what else would we eat for lunch?
I have to say probably the worst fish and chips I have ever eaten! Maybe we just chose the wrong shop to buy them from ...


We cruised the harbour on this little beauty.

We had a great day checking out the many sights of Whitby, from the water and many vantage points around town.  
 Whitby from the bay

Notice the 'leave'  flag on the mast.

The open-topped double decker tourist bus was memorable,  I got bombed by a seagull while  we waited under the branches of the trees for the traffic jam to clear!  The tourist guide didn't seem to know anything interesting about Whitby.  Every question we asked was met with a blank look and a shrug of her shoulders.

We saw some interesting signs while wandering around.


Not sure who won this one... 


 We walked the 199 steps up to the Abbey ruins


The Parish Church 


The ruins!

  
  
The Visitors' Centre 
 Great views of the  Abbey ruins can be seen from the train as you arrive into Whitby and  from the water as you cruise the Harbour.  It can be seen from miles away because of its prominent position on the headland.
The view of the town from the Abbey

 
Some of the paparazzi capturing shots of famous tourists...

The Endeavour, the ship Captain Cook sailed to Australia in,  was built in Whitby.  This  small replica  takes tourists for a trip around the harbour.  Captain Cook is well celebrated in Whitby with a museum and a statute

We returned to Grosmont on the train, but unfortunately Tom wasn't there to offer us the First Class cabin but we still enjoyed the trip, soot and all.    

 We have thoroughly enjoyed our rest days along the Coast to Coast journey.  Each one has been needed, timely and well chosen.  We have been able to relax and enjoy a special part of England at each town and our accommodation at these stops have been particularly welcoming.  Becky,  at 'The Gallery',  cared for us beautifully with a delicious breakfast both morning. Her bright and cheerful manner was a delight.   We now feel ready to tackle the last day!